TEH-R31 Build thread part 3
So following on from part two here Stage 9 Rear pulley This is a nice easy stage, the pulley goes together really easily compared to t...
https://www.thercracer.com/2011/07/teh-r31-build-thread-part-3.html
So following on from part two here
Stage 9 Rear pulley
This is a nice easy stage, the pulley goes together really easily compared to the front pulley and the spur gear mount of doom.
Stage 10 Gear Box installation
To make this stage much easier, its best to assemble the front and rear gearboxes off the chassis. Remember to set up the belts on to the pulleys and then fit them in their pulley holders.
First I assembled the front gearbox, all very straightforward.
Then I mounted it to the chassis, and hooked on the gearbox belt to the pulley belt, and also ensured the large main chassis belt was attached.
Then the rear gearbox had the pulley mount attached, take care to ensure the belt is in the right place when you do this, it can get tangled easily with this pulley holder as you attach it.
I then fitted the rear to the chassis, I hooked up the main chassis belt and then attached the rear gearbox to the chassis, and followed on with the final bearing holders that went on top of the rear pulley holder.
So the main chassis is now looking quite complete
Stage 11 Suspension arm assembly
Just cut of the arms, and made sure no excess plastic was remaining as it would make the arms rub on the bulkheads.
The arms are made of a stiff plastic, and the shafts slid in easily but with no noticeable slop.
Stage 12 Rear suspension Arm installation
For this stage I actually fitted the front and rear arms to the chassis, it just keeps less parts knocking about on the table. The suspension arms fit into the blocks easily, again, no noticeable slop as the suspension mounts are moulded for the shafts.
Front all done, and now the rear
Droop limiters
When building the car I noticed that you are able to fit droop limiter screws to the suspension arms. The manual doesn't show this and there are no parts included for this. However I decided to fit some step screws into the arms to allow me to be able to set up my droop. Being able to do this on a car is fantastic for getting your set-ups correct so I would recommend you do this to your car when building it. If you dont have set screws you can just use some 3X12mm button head screws. (Note if you do this be careful that the screws are deep enough in the arms to not hit the diff out drives.
Stage 13 Universal drive shaft assembly
The drive shafts seem to be made of very high quality steel, they feel rock solid. I just popped some Tamiya AW grease onto the pin, and Axle pin holder and then attempted to fit the pin through.
The pin was a tight fit, much tighter than I anticipated, and much harder than any Universal I have ever built, I ended up fitting the pins by lining up the pin with the hole in the Wheel Axle pin and then squeezing it firmly with my pliers. Dont go mad with the squeezing or you might bend the pin or the axle itself.
The result though is a very solid Universal shaft with amazing movement range.. look at this.
Step 14 Upper arm assembly
Ok this is not in order with the manual, I jumped to this stage so that I could build the turnbuckles and then be able to fit the shafts onto the arms etc. I hate doing these, so just wanted them out of the way.
Anyway, they went together well, I made them all 4.5mm apart so I will have the large amount of camber that seems standard for drift cars nowadays.
Now on to part 4 here
Stage 9 Rear pulley
This is a nice easy stage, the pulley goes together really easily compared to the front pulley and the spur gear mount of doom.
Stage 10 Gear Box installation
To make this stage much easier, its best to assemble the front and rear gearboxes off the chassis. Remember to set up the belts on to the pulleys and then fit them in their pulley holders.
First I assembled the front gearbox, all very straightforward.
Then I mounted it to the chassis, and hooked on the gearbox belt to the pulley belt, and also ensured the large main chassis belt was attached.
I then fitted the rear to the chassis, I hooked up the main chassis belt and then attached the rear gearbox to the chassis, and followed on with the final bearing holders that went on top of the rear pulley holder.
So the main chassis is now looking quite complete
Stage 11 Suspension arm assembly
Just cut of the arms, and made sure no excess plastic was remaining as it would make the arms rub on the bulkheads.
The arms are made of a stiff plastic, and the shafts slid in easily but with no noticeable slop.
Stage 12 Rear suspension Arm installation
For this stage I actually fitted the front and rear arms to the chassis, it just keeps less parts knocking about on the table. The suspension arms fit into the blocks easily, again, no noticeable slop as the suspension mounts are moulded for the shafts.
Droop limiters
When building the car I noticed that you are able to fit droop limiter screws to the suspension arms. The manual doesn't show this and there are no parts included for this. However I decided to fit some step screws into the arms to allow me to be able to set up my droop. Being able to do this on a car is fantastic for getting your set-ups correct so I would recommend you do this to your car when building it. If you dont have set screws you can just use some 3X12mm button head screws. (Note if you do this be careful that the screws are deep enough in the arms to not hit the diff out drives.
The pin was a tight fit, much tighter than I anticipated, and much harder than any Universal I have ever built, I ended up fitting the pins by lining up the pin with the hole in the Wheel Axle pin and then squeezing it firmly with my pliers. Dont go mad with the squeezing or you might bend the pin or the axle itself.
The result though is a very solid Universal shaft with amazing movement range.. look at this.
Step 14 Upper arm assembly
Ok this is not in order with the manual, I jumped to this stage so that I could build the turnbuckles and then be able to fit the shafts onto the arms etc. I hate doing these, so just wanted them out of the way.
Anyway, they went together well, I made them all 4.5mm apart so I will have the large amount of camber that seems standard for drift cars nowadays.
Now on to part 4 here
Dredging this back up from the deadfor you mate...
ReplyDeleteBut there is a aftermarket spur holder made by Kazama Auto. It's designed for the Street Jam OTA-R31 -which R2 hobbies knocked off to make the TEH- so it's a direct bolt up.
Thanks for the advice, the car is sitting all new without a shell. thanks to a large amount or both work and rain I haven't been able to fit the shell and drive the car outside.. The wheelbase seems a bit long compared to most cars.
ReplyDelete