TEH-R31 Build thread Part One
Ok, so first up I printed the manual which can be downloaded here. Manual Unfortunately, there is no parts list in the manual, which you ...
https://www.thercracer.com/2011/07/teh-031-build-thread-part-one.html
Ok, so first up I printed the manual which can be downloaded here. Manual
Unfortunately, there is no parts list in the manual, which you have in the rear of a Tamiya manual etc so I checked all the contents against these pictures from the website.
Once I had done this and sorted out the screws etc I began the build.
Stage 1
Nice and simple, just have to glue the outer ring on the pulleys. You want to use plastic model glue if possible as Superglue will hold, but if twisted will just un attach from the pulley.
NOTE - the parts on the sprues should all be well trimmed when you cut them off. I use a good pair of cutters, a craft knife and file.
Stage 2
Just fitted the front and rear inner suspension blocks, nice and easy the rear inner is much more narrow ready for some massive rear toe in. Make sure you trim the excess of the top of the suspension blocks so they are flat, otherwise it will bind against the steering rack.
Stage 3
Time to build the steering rack
The manual says there should be bushings, but the kit includes actual bearings for the steering assembly. It all went together really well. When screwing it together I found the best way to make it smooth is to turn the screws until it's tight, then unscrew it in quarter turns until the arms move under their own weight.
Here is the finished article.
Stage Four
Time to fit the rack onto the chassis with the steering posts. Nice and simple again just need to check it's not over tightened and the rack moves smoothly once it's screwed down.
Stage Five
It's time to attach the Motor Mount, you need part number L6 from the L-Sprue (the manual doesn't state this)
Build the mount first, it all fits nice and snug, just check it's assembled flat and true by placing it on a flat surface after being assembled.
Then attach it to the chassis. Firstly fit the 2 screws that attach the metal mount to the chassis first, but not too tight, then attach the other 2screws and then tighten them all up fully.
Stage Six - Diffs
Always a way to gauge the quality of a kit in my opinion, so onto the Diffs.
The kit comes with ball diff grease and STD grease. I didn't use the kit stuff I used Tamiya Ball Diff and anti wear grease.
First up the diff rings, in most kits diff rings can always benefit from a bit of preparation, I smoothed my diff rings on some 800grit sandpaper until they felt smooth, some people go up to 1200 but diff rings but I think that is excessive.
Once smooth I washed them down at covered them in ball diff grease. Then I started on the thrust bearing. The best stuff I have ever used is Tamiya Anti wear grease on thrust bearings, it keeps the thrust running for ages.
As can be seen I am applying it with a driver over the thrust balls on both sides, it's sticky so once covered you fit the balls between the two plates like a sandwich and fit it on the diff screw.
Then pop in the balls on the diff pulley. There are 12 holes in the pulley, only 9 are for the balls, 3 it seems are for screws or something as they are larger than the 3mm balls. I would usually use ceramic balls but I am trying to build this up as kit spec first. I popped some ball diff grease in a bag and dropped the balls in it so they all get covered, I then used pincers and dropped them in their slots
The 850 bearings were a tight fit on the diff halves but I managed to slide them on in the end... I don't know if they will ever come off though :)
The diff assembly next, you should take the springs and give them a good squeeze with a pair of pliers, this beds in the spring and will stop the diff working loose when first assembled.
I tightened the rear diff very tight. (Apparently drifters have a spool in the rear, it wasn't this tight but was getting there). The front one was done to be quite loose (the same I do the rear ball diff on my racing touring cars).
Here they are, they feel smooth and perfectly acceptable, not TRF smooth but good nonetheless :)
Now on to Part 2 click here
Unfortunately, there is no parts list in the manual, which you have in the rear of a Tamiya manual etc so I checked all the contents against these pictures from the website.
Once I had done this and sorted out the screws etc I began the build.
Stage 1
Nice and simple, just have to glue the outer ring on the pulleys. You want to use plastic model glue if possible as Superglue will hold, but if twisted will just un attach from the pulley.
NOTE - the parts on the sprues should all be well trimmed when you cut them off. I use a good pair of cutters, a craft knife and file.
Stage 2
Just fitted the front and rear inner suspension blocks, nice and easy the rear inner is much more narrow ready for some massive rear toe in. Make sure you trim the excess of the top of the suspension blocks so they are flat, otherwise it will bind against the steering rack.
Stage 3
Time to build the steering rack
The manual says there should be bushings, but the kit includes actual bearings for the steering assembly. It all went together really well. When screwing it together I found the best way to make it smooth is to turn the screws until it's tight, then unscrew it in quarter turns until the arms move under their own weight.
Here is the finished article.
Stage Four
Time to fit the rack onto the chassis with the steering posts. Nice and simple again just need to check it's not over tightened and the rack moves smoothly once it's screwed down.
Stage Five
It's time to attach the Motor Mount, you need part number L6 from the L-Sprue (the manual doesn't state this)
Build the mount first, it all fits nice and snug, just check it's assembled flat and true by placing it on a flat surface after being assembled.
Then attach it to the chassis. Firstly fit the 2 screws that attach the metal mount to the chassis first, but not too tight, then attach the other 2screws and then tighten them all up fully.
Stage Six - Diffs
Always a way to gauge the quality of a kit in my opinion, so onto the Diffs.
The kit comes with ball diff grease and STD grease. I didn't use the kit stuff I used Tamiya Ball Diff and anti wear grease.
First up the diff rings, in most kits diff rings can always benefit from a bit of preparation, I smoothed my diff rings on some 800grit sandpaper until they felt smooth, some people go up to 1200 but diff rings but I think that is excessive.
Once smooth I washed them down at covered them in ball diff grease. Then I started on the thrust bearing. The best stuff I have ever used is Tamiya Anti wear grease on thrust bearings, it keeps the thrust running for ages.
As can be seen I am applying it with a driver over the thrust balls on both sides, it's sticky so once covered you fit the balls between the two plates like a sandwich and fit it on the diff screw.
Then pop in the balls on the diff pulley. There are 12 holes in the pulley, only 9 are for the balls, 3 it seems are for screws or something as they are larger than the 3mm balls. I would usually use ceramic balls but I am trying to build this up as kit spec first. I popped some ball diff grease in a bag and dropped the balls in it so they all get covered, I then used pincers and dropped them in their slots
The 850 bearings were a tight fit on the diff halves but I managed to slide them on in the end... I don't know if they will ever come off though :)
The diff assembly next, you should take the springs and give them a good squeeze with a pair of pliers, this beds in the spring and will stop the diff working loose when first assembled.
I tightened the rear diff very tight. (Apparently drifters have a spool in the rear, it wasn't this tight but was getting there). The front one was done to be quite loose (the same I do the rear ball diff on my racing touring cars).
Here they are, they feel smooth and perfectly acceptable, not TRF smooth but good nonetheless :)
Now on to Part 2 click here
thanks man , i was finding dificulties because in the manual , it doesn't say wee ned part L6 for the motor mount , and i was finding something like in the picture ( hard to understeand) , thanks !
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