Hobbyking Turnigy TD10 Build and Review

Traditionally when people become interested in racing RC cars, the cost barrier has always something that has stopped them from taking up...

Traditionally when people become interested in racing RC cars, the cost barrier has always something that has stopped them from taking up the hobby. Nowadays things have changed with a range of kits appearing delivering a great entry level chassis at a great price. By far the cheapest available at the moment is the Turnigy TD10 sold by Hobbyking.

The TD10 has a great specifications for a car that costs around £55 delivered! It has standard 2 belt design with front and rear oil filled gear diffs, adjustable turnbuckles, low profile dampers and it is also fully ball-raced.

I have always been passionate about getting people to come and race TC10, and I was intrigued to see if this car could really deliver for the incredibly low price. So instead of going out for a night on the town, I thought I would take the plunge and see if this bargain is really to good to be true.

For this build I wanted to keep the car true to the basic kit and see what can be achieved for such a cheap entry level car.
Got to like the pink!

What's in the box?

When you open the box you get 11 bags containing the parts, an aerial antenna and the manual. The kit also includes a set of wheels and tyres, along with shock oil (350wt) and Diff oil (2000).
All of the parts in nice little bags.

Tools and Preparation

Just before setting of on the build I like to sort out the screws and then have a look through the manual to ensure that I have everything that is needed for the build. The kit comes with steel hex screws, a welcome addition to any kit. I then studied the manual and got all of my tools etc together for the build.
Bag 10 contains the bulk of the screws, I sorted them out before the build.
For the build it will be best to have the following tools and parts available:
  • 2mm Hex Driver
  • Threadlock
  • Small Phillips / Cross driver
  • Pincers
  • Pliers
  • Green Slime / AW grease.
  • CA/Super Glue or Nail Varnish
  • Thin oil

Assembling tips

There will be a selection of tips and pointers along the way, but here are some general tips to help the build.
  • Use a drop of thin oil on screws that you will screw into plastic to save sore hands.
  • Use a screw to thread any items where you will fit a ball stud such as the upper bulkheads, steering block, Uprights etc
  • Use a screw to thread the ball connectors before you add the turnbuckles 
So with everything ready it's time to start the build.

Preparing the chassis

The TD10 has a GRP chassis components instead of the Carbon plates that you will find on the more expensive touring chassis.
GRP is strong and a good substitute for carbon fibre
The GRP that is used for the chassis plates is strong and there is not much flex, but it is much heavier than carbon fibre and the bottom plate weighs in at 132g,  As a reference the TRF419 lower deck weighs in at 71g a full 60g lighter!  As you can see in the pictures above, the chassis is based on the older wider designs when we used to use Nimh batteries, so this extra material will also add a lot to the weight of the deck. 
The front (left) and rear towers have a range of uppers suspension mounts for tuning.
The towers are also made of GRP, the front looks pretty standard, but as you can see the rear is quite different due to the way it fits to the rear bulkhead.

With GRP it is not essential to do the edges with CA glue, although I still do it as a matter of course. For this build I thought I would celebrate the pink colour of the anodising and edge the chassis with some pink nail varnish. It is a technique that seems to be getting popular, the varnish doesn't penetrate the carbon as much as CA glue so it is less likely to affect the flex of the chassis. 

I took the motor mount into Boots and the helpful girl behind the counter found a good match for the anodising. (Mabelline Bubble Gum Pink for those that are interested).  The process took ages, and I will honestly never want to do it again, nail varnish is horrible sticky stuff. 
Pink is the new blue? 
Once all the edges were done I let them dry and then coated them with CA glue. This final process hardens the nail varnish and also makes it look more shiny.  Despite the hassle, the final result actually looks quite good on the final car.

Step 1 - Gear Differentials

As mentioned before this kit comes with two 38-teeth oil filled gear differentials. 
Lots of internal shims are included for this diff, leading to it being quite heavy.
First up I cracked out the green slime, although I have also been starting to use Tamiya AW grease on diffs now as well, so you can use that instead if you have some. 
I like to chuck a lot of slime on rings!
The O-rings that come with this diff are tight, so I would recommend just putting a drop of shock oil on them. Then follow it up by slapping on some green slime onto the O-ring and into the socket where it fits.
Lots of slime!
You then need to push the diff cup end through the o-ring (The shock oil helps it move smoothly through and stops it cracking, and potentially leaking through). Once through you then need to fit the shims over the end shaft and place the pin though the end. I used a liberal amount of green slime on the first shim to ensure that it would stop the diff leaking through the out-drive. 
It's like a game of Operation!
You need to do the same on the other half of the diff, but this side is deeper so a set of pincers will help you do this job more easily.

Now you need to cut the bevel gears of the sprue. They are made out of a strong glass re-enforced plastic so are easy to trim. The moulding here seemed to be very good and the teeth profiles were all consistent.  

Tip- When cutting these out, ensure you use a sharp knife to cut of any excess sprue parts on the gear, otherwise this can create binding and make your diff feel rough.
Bevels installed
Now you need to put on the main bevel gears. As you can see on the picture above they fit on well, although you want to ensure that they are not raised too far over the top of the shaft. If they are then the diff will feel notchy. 

Tip -You may have to remove one of the 0.3mm shims from under one of the bevel gears to ensure that the diff feels smooth. You can test this by fitting the spider gears and then closing the diff without the oil and seeing how it feels. 
The shims take out any lateral movement on the spider gears.
Next up we make the spider gears. These fit onto a two piece steel cross pin and they are backed with a shim. 
The 2000wt oil is a bonus, you can use this in both diffs, but many racers will want a heavier front diff oil.
It's time now to fill the gear diffs with oil. I was very impressed to see that this kit actually came with oil that is useful, 2000wt is a great base oil.  However for this build I fitted 500,000wt to the front diff and the 2000wt oil to the rear as I wanted a spool like action for the front of the car. 
The oil should never be above the top centre cross joint.
When you fill the diffs with the oil be careful to not overfill them. You just need to ensure that the oil reached the top of the cross pins. Any more and you will be overfilling them.

Whilst the oil is settling in the diff it is time to finish building the rest of the diff. I get the gasket and smothered it in green slime.
Slap lots of slime on this
Doing this help stop any oil escape from the main pulley.
Do not push hard on the gasket or you can tear it.

I then popped it gently into the top of the diff using the locator holes and also placed a but of green slime into the screw holes.
The final diff is smooth
I then screwed the two parts of the diff together. The key here is to tighten opposite ends in a cross manner. You want them to be firm in the diff. 

Tip - Do not over-tighten the screws as you will actually make the internal gears crush against each other. 

Step 2- Centre gear adaptor

Now it's time to fit the 20t centre pulleys. These are plastic moulded (Again with the hard Glass re-enforced plastic) and they have 4 locating plugs that go through the spur. 
You can fit the pulleys on just about any spur with 4 holes.
As you can see here I fitted them to some of my spare spurs and the Panaracer (Xenon and Kawada super EX) and the Tamiya TRF spurs fitted fine on the adaptor. 
The kit spur is 48dp
The Kit comes with an 80t 48dp Spur. I never run 48dp on my normal race cars, but I fitted it to this build as this car will at some point be raced on more challenging surfaces than carpet and clean race tracks. (Cheshire Cats, a local outdoor club that runs on an unprepared School playground)
The screws need to be tweaked to ensure that the pulleys are symetrical
When attaching the two pulley halves together you really have to ensure that they are equally spaced otherwise your pulley will be buckled. You should do the screws in a cross pattern. Once you feel that the pulley is correctly screwed on you want to fit the steel central shaft and the two 850 bearings.
Check that it spins freely without any wobble
When you think it is straight you want to spin the pulley and see if it wobbles, just take your time to do small adjustments to the screws until it looks like you have taken out any excess wobble. This can take a little time but the end result will be worth it.

Step 3 Suspension mount

Now we have to fit the two inner suspension mounts. The kit ones are also made of hard plastic and they also have two locating pins that you can use to ensure they are aligned correctly.
Ensure you fit the belt under the mount.
They fit firmly into the chassis with the steel hex headed screws. You also need to fit the front belt (522mm 174teeth) under the front mount.

Step 4 - Motor mount

The pink looks pretty good, I prefer it to purple anyway.
The motor mount is made of aluminium with a plastic lay-shaft mount. This ensures that it will hold up to the torque of brushless motors.
Tamiya threadlock gel is my preferred make as it grips well but is easy to unscrew when needed
I use a little threadlock for the screw that fits into the centre mount. You will not want this to come loose in a race.
check the plastic mount is aligned with the mounting peg
The lay-shaft mount also has a mounting peg on the motor mount and it all screws together well and the final result is nice and square.
I then added the centre shaft, this allows you to make a final check to pop on your centre spur assembly and see that you have made it straight as you spin it on the shaft.
Spin that wheel and check that you have eliminated the wobble with the centre pulley mounts.
Once this is done then you need to fit the opposite lay-shaft mount.
Despite the temptation, do not add lots of shims to eliminate the left and right movement of the spur.
At this stage there seems to be a little left to right movement on the spur and pulleys. Once you fit this on the chassis this will be mostly eliminated. So do not shim it out yet as you may end up with it binding.
remember to fit the rear belt
Now use the locating pins and ensure that it is really well seated into the chassis and fit the screws. Also ensure that you have added the rear belt (171mm 57t)

Stage 5 - Front and Rear bulkheads

As you would expect in a kit this price the front and rear bulkheads are made of stiff plastic.
Matt black, kinda stealth.
You can see the locating pints at the bottom, you just need to ensure that you screw them into the chassis and ensure that they are not warped.
By now you might want to rest your hands from screwing into the hard plastic
I screw them in firmly but not really tight. I tighten them at a later stage once the full bulkhead and towers are attached.

Stage 6 - Gear diff to main chassis

The TD10 uses eccentric bearing holders. These are circular and hold the 1510 bearings on each side of the diff. The inner section is an egg shape, this allows you to change the tension of the belts when you rotate them in the bulkheads.
I use a drop of white paint to fill the markers on the bearing holders so they are easy to see when adjusting them
It is good to ensure that you cut any excess of these. There is always the possibility that once you add the upper bulkhead you can crush the bearing holders and reduce the efficiency of the car as the diffs will not spin freely.

You then have to follow the instructions on how to mount the front and rear diffs. Here you notice how tight the kit included belts are. They are really tight even on loose settings.
Ensure that you have the same setting on both sides of the diff otherwise the car will not run well
Here is the front setting, set to the loosest possible setting at 6 notches away from the bottom locator. It is quite difficult and the belt is really tight and it actually bends the chassis a little bit due to the tightness of the belt! I'm not that happy with that, especially as I am used to loose belts when running 17.5. I am assuming that the upper deck will straighten the chassis out once fitted and the belts will stretch once it has been run in.
The marker is two notches away from the bottom locator for the rear
Here is the rear belt setting. The rear belt is still very tight but it is not as taught as the front one. Here you can adjust it further (By 4 notches) to loosen if further if you wish. I kept with the manual settings for now.

Stage 7 - Bulkhead cover

Front bulkhead and tower are easy to assemble. The tower is strong and needs quite a lot of effort to bend.
The included shock tower shims are also pink
When assembling this do not tighten the screws too tight. as once you fit the upper bulkhead to the lower one you will want to then just tighten them all up to ensure they are square to keep the drive train as free as possible.

The front upper bulkhead is similar to most that you will see on 1/10 cars, but the rear is much more interesting. There is no shock tower mount this is because the rear tower actually fits on the end of the rear bulkhead.
Add the shims if necessary to stop the upper bulkheads squeezing the bearings

As mentioned before you should ensure you are not crushing the bearing holders. To check this just fit the upper bulkhead, screw it down (not too tight) and spin the diffs. If they are tight they will not spin freely and see if it sits flush with the lower bulkhead. 

If it is not as free as you want, then just add some little shims to space out the upper deck. On this car I found that it was fine on the front but on the rear I added  one 3x0.3mm shim over all four screw holes on the rear bulkhead to get a nice smooth feeling for the diffs.  (Note you need to do all 4 screw holes or you will have an un-aligned upper bulkhead.

Stage 8 - Steering System

The steering system uses a centrally mounted steering saver that allows Ackermann tuning.
The steering uses ball bearings and is very free
The steering assembly is very easy, the pink shim is the one that you can change to adjust the Ackermann steering but the kit setting is fine.
The final part assembled.

Stage 9 - Steering System to main chassis

This is a nice easy stage. you just need to balance the M11 spacer and the M3 spacer above each other on top of the shaft.
Be careful not to knock this off until the next stage
You can add some 5mm shims to the upper bearing to reduce some horizontal movement of the arm. I fitted a 0.3mm thick shim here and it worked well once assembled.

Stage 10 - Upper deck

So get ready as we now have to attach 13 screws to the upper deck.
With a little wriggle I got the top deck fitted well
As mentioned before the front belt was really tight so I had to flex the chassis a little to get the top deck in position. I then held the chassis down on the set-up board and screwed in the end screws, centre post and the steering block screw.

Then its a case of fitting the other screws. just screw them in but not too tight and then ensure the chassis is straight and flat on the set-up board (Or any other flat surface such as a glass table etc) and then firmly tighten the screws from front to back until they are all seated and the chassis is flat. The end result is a tweak free chassis.

Stage 11 - Front suspension arm

With the main chassis assembled we have to get on to the suspension arms
Just check there is no excess plastic and trim it off
They again they are strong with very little flex, and the moulding is very good. The arms do not use a grub screw for downstop settings, instead it uses a std screw. Despite the extra weight I like the idea, until the TRF419 we had to use smaller grub screws and they would dig into the chassis quite a lot unlike the wider M3 sized items.

The shafts fit well into the arms. The plastic 1mm thick 3mm shims are there to adjust wheelbase and weight distribution, for now just fit one at the front and one at the rear.  Fit the shaft into the already mounted Front Rear block (FR) and you can now fit on the front block (FF+0) on to hold the shafts in place.

At this stage just check the arms fall under their own weight once assembled otherwise they will affect the suspension movement. If they are too tight replace the 1mm shim with smaller depth shims on the shafts until they fall and you have no movement. For this build they both fitted fine with the 1mm shims included

**NOTE** Never ream the arms on these cars. I see it time and time again and people wonder why their car is sloppy etc. The shafts move in the blocks, it is fine for the shafts to be tight when in the suspension arms.

Stage 12 - rear suspension arm

Now it's time for the rear arms.
The kit comes with 2 degree or 3 degree rear blocks
Similar to the front assembly and it all goes together well. In the kit you get two option rear blocks where you can set your rear toe to either 2 or 3 degrees. I opted for the 3 degree block to begin with as it will ensure that the car is more stable. If tuning for 17.5 or slower VTA classes I would consider a move to the 2 degree blocks, but only once I had got the feel of the car.
3 Degrees of rear Toe in for a stable car.
Again the arms and plastic shims all fitted together well and there was no binding or slop once the rear arms were assembled

Stage 13 - Rear upright and upper linkage

The car comes with dogbones for the rear
Each rear upright has two 1050 bearings and it all clips together nice and firmly.
Ensure you do this to all plastic parts that have the ball studs attack to them. It will save a lot of hassle
As I am fitting ball studs I quickly screw a std screw into the upper holes to ensure they fit well, do both holes when you do it as the upper holes here allow you to run a shorter upper turn-buckle for more additive camber when you corner. 

You then have to fit the M3 x 25 suspension pin through the lower arm into the hub and grab it with a grub screw.
The Grub screw grabs the suspension pin and the whole assembly moves freely
Again no slop or binding for the item and it moves freely.
Cut the foam part to a 4mm length with a sharp blade and push it in the cup.
You then pop in a little piece of the front bumper foam in the outer drive cup to help the dog bone be firmly seated into the car.

Now you just have to pop on the rear turnbuckles. I always hate building these but the ones for the TD10 are actually quite easy to build.
Always thread these with a screw to ensure they fit easily.
First thread each one with a screw
I hate doing this job, but this one was only mildly grim compared to others.
Then use pliers to hold the square end and use the kit wrench to twist the steel turnbuckle into the ball cap.

I like to do them all together, once done I can then enjoy the rest of the build. Here are the lengths that I would use to get a good base setting for the car.
  • Front turnbuckles - 18mm (This gives 2 degrees front camber)
  • Rear turnbuckle - 22mm (This gives 2 degrees of rear camber)
  • Steering turnbuckles - 29mm (This gives 1 degree of front toe out) 

Stage 14 - Front knuckle and upper linkage

As you can see the front has universal shafts included (46mm), which is fantastic for a kit at this price point. I disassembled these as I wanted piece of mind that they were not going to fall to pieces once the turbo kicked in on the 13.5 motor.
It is best to check the assembly and rebuild it.
As you can see these are very similar to the Tamiya TRF416 versions, with a grub screw holding the the inner joint and pin together.
Ensure these are race ready if you want to get a long life out of them.
I serviced them as I would with my TRF cars and added AW grease to the inner joint and pin, and used some threadlock on the grub screw to stop it falling out.
This ensures the uprights rotate correctly once you fit them
Now onto the front upright, I always fit the screws in uprights to ensure they are straight and the holes are correctly threaded. If you fit them in the car you can sometimes not screw them in correctly and you will get funky handling. As you can see this car uses flange tubes over the ball stud instead of a classic kingpin.
Here you can see on the left upright the part that I cut away for more steering lock if I needed it.
TIP - The uprights are moulded to stop you getting full lock, I cut the blockers off with a sharp knife to get more potential steering throw. You might not want to do this (Fast cars should not have lots of steering lock) but I like to have everything at my disposal when at a track so I just made this mod whilst assembling the car.
Ensure that all parts rotate freely
Once these were cut I popped the 1050 bearings in and assembled the front end.
Too much pink?
The pins then were threaded through the arms and the C-Hubs and the grub screw tightened, again with everything fitting together well with no binding! The turnbuckles were attached and the front end was pretty much finished now.

Stage 15 - Rear shock tower

The rear tower is quite different to most as it attaches across the rear of the bulkhead. It's a good idea as it helps keep the rear bulkhead stiff, especially as it will have to cope with the torque of a motor applying a range of forces as the car is being raced.
Interesting rear end!
As you can see the shock towers position means that the rear shocks are inside the tower as to the standard design of sitting behind them. It also means that the rear body posts are quite far back compared to other touring cars.

Stage 16 - Oil Shocks

The TD10 comes with oil filled low profile shocks as standard.
Low profile shocks come as standard
The shock components are very similar to TRF shocks. The kit comes with 3 hole shock pistons that are attached to the shaft by two E-Clips.
Doing this helps to stop the O-rings getting damaged when being assembled
First up I covered the O-rings in some of the kit included shock oil (350wt). NOTE : This is an ideal oil to start racing outside, although if racing indoors I would look at trying 450wt oil. I will use the kit oil for this build.
Add a drop of oil to the piston shaft before you place it in the shock.
I then assembled the pistons, I noticed that there is a little dimple on one side of the piston so I assembled all of the shafts with the dimple on the upper side.
Pink Ring!
Take each of the cylinders (Check they are smooth and there is no plastic on the outer side that could snag the spring) and added the O-ring spacer, O-ring and finally the rod guide to the cylinder and screwed on the lower aluminium cap.
These will also fit Tamiya Mini's
I then popped some shock oil on the piston shaft and threaded it through into the cylinder.
Time for a cup of tea.
Now just fill the shocks up with the kit oil and wait for all of the air bubbles to disappear. I built the shocks to have about 3mm of rebound.
Nice quality for the price
The final part is to assemble the shocks and fit the springs. As these are low profile shocks the springs are shorter than standard touring car ones. They are the same size as Tamiya Mini springs and there are other sets available. These springs are 5.5t and 21mm length.

The shocks are not threaded so you will need to pop the assorted spacers above the spring retainer to set the ride height. These are fine, especially for beginners as they ensure you have exactly the same settings on each spring for the ride height.

Stage 17 - Bumper and body post

Adjustable bumper strength, that's new to me.
The front bumper is a good size and it is stiff, for those that want a soft bumper you can pop out the inner sections. It looks like Xray T2 and Tamiya TRF419 bumpers will also fit if you needed a spare.
At least the pink matches and it doesn't clash

The car is coming together well now, and I cannot wait to get the electrics installed.

Stages 18, 19, 20 - Electrics, Battery belt and wheels

You just need to assemble the servo saver. The kit one uses a 3 spring method like the Tamiya High torque servo saver.
This would be high on my upgrade list once racing, I would get a Kimborough version.
I am not a big fan of this design as they can soon start to become loose, but I will fit it for the review. I then fitted the servo (Sanwa 971 ERS), Motor (Turnigy Track Star 13.5) and the Esc (Hobbyking X-Car 60amp).

The car also comes with a velcro battery strap and holder. This is great for ease of use but does add around 40g of weight to the car. Again I fitted it to the car to ensure it was pretty much kit spec for the review.

Final thing to add were the tyres and wheel hexes. It is great to have a set of wheels with tyres included in the kit, and the compound is very soft. You do need to glue the tyres to the rims though otherwise they will come of the rims.

When you attach the wheels to the hex's be careful to not over-tighten them as the plastic hex's will just grab into the wheels. I would honestly look at purchasing some 5mm deep clamp style hex's as it would make it much easier to swap wheels when at the track.
Left / Right balance is key to a consistent handling car
I then quickly balanced the chassis on my Hudy balance pins. I only had to add 10g to the right of the car to ensure that it was balanced.

Here is the final chassis.

With electrics installed the car weighs in at 1311g so once you add a shell it will be approx 1400g

The final car with electrics installed
I crimped the wires to keep the car looking neat.

Loose Fix

Once the car was built I was still not really happy with how tight the car felt with the belts. This is partly down to my preference of running super loose belts on my cars (Especially on my 17.5 cars). The car was OK and with the motor removed it would  move under it's own weight with a little push. However before I hit the track I thought I would run it in a bit.

To do this I just fitted an old brushed motor with a battery connector and slapped on some nicads and ran them flat. I used to to this to my older Touring cars to loosen the drive train and after 30 mins of spinning on the bench the drive train did feel much more free. This would obviously happen when you take it to the track after time but it is just something that I like to do to help me hit the track running.

Track Test

After checking the car on a set-up station and checking everything was straight and even I took the car to my local club for it's maiden voyage.
Lets hit the track!
I was racing a mixed selection of top end cars such as X-Ray's, TRF's and Schumacher's driven by experienced club racers.

As is normal for me I didn't get to the club until quite late after work. I got there with 5 minutes before my race and managed to get the car on the start line to take it for a shake down.

The first thing I noticed is that the car had way too much expo set on the steering. I was using a spare Code radio set instead of my Sanwa Exzes Z. Needless to say I had to spend most of the race just getting the radio settings to my liking. Towards the end I had it feeling ok and I tried to pop in a few quick laps. The TD10 felt ok but it was a bit of a handful coming out of the corner.

The second race soon came around. I had now adjusted the shock settings on the rear tower further out. I also had time to actually put additive on the tyres, along with changing the punch setting on the ESC.

The car was instantly much better. I started at the back of the grid, mindful that I was essentially test driving the car in our top club heat. The car was fun to drive, and I was able to get some good laps in as I got used to the way in which the car handled. The main issue was that I would normally run a spool indoors now, and even though the front diff had some thick oil in it, the initial corner entry was catching me out as I would sometimes clip the apex at the top of the straight.

For the third race I changed my downstop settings to have 2mm front and 3mm rear and also played with my shock positions again. I lined up at the back of the grid and when the buzzer went I raced off. I was now getting used to the car and I managed to get up into second place after 3 laps. I was getting into the swing of things with the car and enjoying the race. I soon got caught by the TRF419 chasing me and after a couple of laps it managed to pass on the tight infield section. I was still comfortable in third until I clipped the barrier and rolled into the boards at full tilt.

Without reverse I had to wait for the marshal, this did cost me a lot of time. The car however was completely fine and despite the 30mph accident the car was all intact and running perfectly as I passed the finish line in last place.

It was time for the final. I moved the shock settings again to help corner speed and make the car a little faster on the technical sections. The race started and the car felt good at the first corner, I soon caught up to the 4th place racer and was able to keep on their tail, they made a mistake and I weaved through to claim fourth. The grip was coming up and the car was feeling remarkably settled on the track. I then caught up to the third place runner and again waited to pass. The front diff action was still catching me out a little as I am so used to running around the track with my spool but I changed my line on a couple of corners and used it to my advantage to sneak past and head into third place. The two guys ahead were a good distance away so I just concentrated on holding off the charge from the couple of guys behind. Despite them threatening me at a few points I was able to hold them off to take third place :)

Here is a very shaky video of the race

Here was the final set-up that I had for the car at the end of the night:
  • 3mm spacers front shock
  • Hole 3 front tower
  • 4mm spacers rear shock
  • hole 5 rear tower
  • 2 degrees camber F/R 
  • 1 degree front toe
  • 2mm Front downstop (Droop)
  • 3mm Rear downstop (Droop)


I was really happy with what I had achieved with the track test. I took a car that was not really set-up for the track and with very little actual track time and managed a decent result for the first time out.

If running it on carpet I do the following:
  • Change the shock oil to 450 front and rear
  • Fit a stiffer front spring
  • Thicker front diff oil (1 or 2 million would be good)
  • Potentially fitting stabilizers (They are available as an option) 
Next up I will hopefully get to race the car outside. So I will keep the settings I currently have and go from there.

The important thing is that the car has proved that it is a great entry level car for a club racer. Take your time building it and ensure you tune the shocks / diff oils and you will have a car that will give you a lot of room to improve your driving skills when competing at your local club.  The specification of the car is great for the price and it is also reasonably strong.


  • High specification for the price
  • Kit comes with useful oils
  • Hex hardware is strong with no stripping


  • The belts are tight initially
  • The overall car is quite heavy
  • Spare part availability could be a problem,

I have to admit this car has really impressed me for the price. Hopefully it will encourage more people to start racing at their local club, and for that you have to give the car an A*

Where to Buy?

The Turnigy TD10 is available from the following 5 Hobbyking warehouses:
Turnigy TD10 UK Warehouse

Turnigy TD10 Int Warehouse

Turnigy TD10 Euro Warehouse

Turnigy TD10 Aust Warehouse

Turnigy TD10 Rus Warehouse
Turningy 248788967090835545

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