RC MAKER GeoCarbon HD Weighted Tweak Wheel set Review

Sit in the pits at any race venue and you will spot a strange phenonium. Drivers will slope off a chair, squat in front of their pit table until their eyes are level. Holding that position they raise and drop their chassis as they scrutinise each end of the car to ensure both wheels rise at the same time, to eliminate 'Tweak'. This process is an essential part of set-up to ensure you have a perfectly balanced car. Yet is sometimes awkward to have the space, can make your knees ache and even when you are squatting in the pits, it can sometimes be difficult to ascertain which wheel was first to raise, especially if the pit area is not well lit up.


So I was really interested to see these new RCMaker GeoCarbon HD weighted Tweak wheel sets for sale at my local hobby shop, so I thought I would give them a spin.

Opening the packet.

In the packet you get two weighted tweak wheels. These are made with carbon fibre with the weight made from Brass. The wheels each have a smooth moving ABEC 7 bearing that has a very well machined black Knurled thumb nut.


You also get two A-Type mounts. These are made to keep the other end of the car stable whilst you are fixing the tweak. These also have the smooth ABEC 7 Bearings and the black Knurled thumb nut.

These parts are really well made, and they do ease quality, so will look ok alongside the TRF parts in my pitbox. 

Fitting

After setting the droop on your chassis it is time to check the tweak.  

So you just use the M4 threaded knurled thumb nuts to screw the weighted wheels at one end of the chassis. 

Now attach the A-Stands at the opposite end of the chassis. It doesn't matter what end you start to de-tweak.. although my OCD will ensure that I always start at the front. 

How to de-tweak the chassis.

• Place the chassis on a nice flat surface such as a setting board. 
• Set the Tweak wheels so that they are on the board with the RCMaker logo horizontal
• Press down at both ends on the chassis to settle the suspension. 

• Grab the middle of the shock tower at the end of the chassis with the weighted wheels and lift the car gently until you notice one of the wheels rotate.
• The wheel that rotates early is the side that needs to be unscrewed half a turn towards the top of the damper at the opposite end of the car. Once you have done this you need to screw down the shock collar on the opposite side also by half a turn. E.G If the front right wheel spins first when lifting the chassis, you need to unscrew the rear right damper collar by half a turn then screw down the rear left damper by half a turn. 
• Repeat this process until both wheels spin at the same time when you lift that end of the chassis. Then do the same process again at the other end of the car. As mentioned before, it does not matter what end you do first. 

Once you have done this you will have a perfectly balanced car ready to hit the track :) 

Conclusion

I've been using these wheels for a while now and I am really pleased with my purchase. 

Yes they are not cheap, but I do find that they are not only easier to use, but are make it easier to spot the tiny disparity between wheels raising off the ground than the conventional method.

The other value added point is that they work with any chassis with 4mm axles, so you can use them on M07's TT02's etc that are much harder to balance with the conventional method. Very cool :)