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You Can Race a Tamiya! TT02 R Race Review Tips Settings 47326

After a frenetic few weeks, I realized that MICC Round Three was fast approaching. Following the exhilaration of racing the Tamiya TA08 Pro in Round One, I was eager to explore an even more entry-level option and run a TT-02.


Choosing a TT-02 to race is no simple task. The range includes the base kit, R, RR, Type-S, SR, and SRX. While it is widely acknowledged that the SRX is the pinnacle of the TT-02 line, its price is also quite steep. Consequently, I opted for the most economical 'race' spec TT-02 available: the Tamiya TT-02R.


The TT-02R comes equipped with a plethora of useful hop-ups in the box, including:

  • 53159 4mm Aluminium Flange Lock Nut (Blue)

  • 54247 3x18mm Aluminium Turnbuckle Shaft (Blue) x2

  • 54501 TT-02 Aluminium Propeller Shaft

  • 53642 5mm Aluminium Ball Connector (Blue)

  • 54500 TT-02 High-Speed Gear Set (68T)

  • 54502 TT-02 Aluminium Propeller Joint

  • 54733 Aluminium Uprights (3-degree toe-in)

  • 54558 Aluminium Motor Mount (Note: the R kit has a unique version of this)

  • 54476 Full Bearing Set

  • 54753 TT-02 CVA Super-Mini Shock

It also includes metal driveshafts and axles, along with 54477 Tamiya TT-02 Cup Joints for universal shafts. For the price, this car, along with the TT-02 Type S, represents one of the most economical ways to achieve a racy on-road 1/10 Tamiya. I placed an order with MB Models, along with one other significant option part:



This hop-up is essential as the TT-02R lacks camber adjustment, a necessity to compete against high-end touring cars. Priced around £20, it is the only viable option for upper camber adjustment (aluminium solutions from some manufacturers tend to bend and are also quite heavy).


The parcel arrived promptly, and I cleared space on my workbench, ready to commence the build the following day. Yes, I had left it late, giving myself just one day to build the car, install the electronics, cut and paint the shell, and pack for an early start on Sunday morning.


The build followed the standard kit instructions, though I took some time to shim the arms (Tamiya 53587 5mm Shim Set is ideal for this). Since I wanted to maintain a build based entirely on Tamiya parts, I didn't install an adjustable motor mount. This can be tricky with some TT-02 models, but the TT-02R includes the 54500 high-speed gear set, allowing any spur gear to be fitted.


Using my TT-02 Stealth Gear Chart, I found a combination that would yield a 4.5 F.D.R. The goal was to have the gear mesh with the motor as close to the centre of the chassis as possible, keeping the weight centralized and aiding transitions and cornering. The chart indicated that approximately 130 teeth should fit into position A. I mounted an 82T spur gear and a 47T pinion. Although this totals 129 teeth, the chart is an approximate guide—though a 48T pinion also fits, it felt slightly too tight.


The small  hole helps build a shock with zero rebound

I opted to use the kit's CVA dampers. There are some fine adjustments one can make to enhance their quality further, but I kept them stock, except for a 0.1mm shim to prevent the piston from moving between the two E-clips. I also added O-rings on the pistons to reduce droop. My preferred inner spacing is 3mm front spacers and 2mm rear, though for high-grip indoor tracks, I might use 2-3mm in one pair and 3-4mm in the other, swapping between front and rear to alter settings. On high grip, running more droop on the front than the rear often works well with the TT-02, so I set the shocks accordingly. The other thing I do is to drill a 1mm hole in the cap to support zero rebound.


The front diff was stiffened with Tamiya putty, though I didn't completely lock it. The TT-02 lacks double cardans and has a slight understeer characteristic, so a minimal diff action ensures drivetrain reliability and aids turn-in.


Regarding the track width, I would recommend using wide hexes. 7mm hexes are very affordable for a set (non-Tamiya). I had some 9mm hexes from a WR02 build I completed eons ago. You'll struggle to use the included lock nuts with 9mm hexes, so you'll need to either fit Tamiya 50808 TG10 long axles or 54394 Tamiya Assembly universal shafts WR02. I also prefer to widen the rear slightly more than the front on the TT-02 to reduce the chance of grip roll, so I added 0.5mm shims to each of the rear hexes.


I installed a Hobbywing Justock G3S speed controller, which offers excellent value for money when running 17.5 blinky. Once the electronics were installed, it was time for the body.


Painting at 10pm in a damp garage is not recommended..

This is a pro-level race, so a touring car shell is mandatory. In a rush, the lightest shell I found in stock was the Ultra-light Xtreme Twister Special. Unpainted, it weighs just 50g. It's always best to use the lightest possible shell indoors, and knowing that the TT-02 would be very heavy compared to the competition, I opted for that. I then proceeded to execute one of the quickest and worst paint jobs in the history of RC racing—so don’t expect any photos!


Once everything was mounted, the car was heavy, far above the 1300g minimum weight for the class. I wasn't planning on installing titanium screws, as I wanted to keep this build close to spec (although they would shave off around 20g). However, I did swap out the battery strap (18g) for a TA05 one from my spares box, saving 12g. I also replaced the upper bumper mount, which is huge and heavy, with a TT01 aluminium bumper plate, saving an additional 9g. Plus, it added a touch of blue.


When I weighed the car, it was 1340g with everything installed—not great, but not terrible. There were ways to reduce the weight further, but I was keen to see how a stock TT-02R would perform.

At the track...

The MICC is a fantastic venue with the largest indoor track in the UK. 



The layout was excellent and flowing, which suited the TT-02, built in stock form and locked to a maximum of 16 degrees steering throw due to the steering limiters.


With the battery charged and ready for practice, I had some initial reservations, but as I gently throttled away, I started to feel confident. The TT-02R was very flat around the corners, with no real urgency. Though it understeered slightly, it felt sure-footed and easy to drive. With the combination of a green carpet and new tires, there wasn't a high amount of grip. I took it easy and didn't push hard, but I was pleased with the car's consistency.


During Q1, it was time to see how the car would perform under pressure. I made no significant changes other than dialling in a bit more front camber (starting at 0.5 degrees as I was paranoid about grip roll). The car was good, though it still lacked some front-end grip, making corner rotation a struggle. However, it was incredibly easy to drive. I had one incident when I was too keen on the apex and went flying off the curb. The TT-02 tumbled over, but nothing broke. I was conservative, anticipating the grip would increase throughout the day, so I focused on getting safe times before grip roll became a threat.


I adjusted some ESC settings, noticing I had too much drag brake, so I set it to 0 and softened the brakes to 75%. The shaft drivetrain is very precise on throttle and brake, and I was concerned about stripping a gear due to the rapid stopping.


The Red and Blue car is the TT-02R

As I drove off with the TT-02, everything felt good. The 4.5 F.D.R was too high as other cars were quicker on the long straight, but the TT-02's flatness allowed me to carry a lot of speed around the corners. The shaft-driven drivetrain provided excellent response exiting corners, helping me maintain gaps and close in on other cars. This round felt great, and the car was easy to drive, with no mishaps during the five-minute stint. My best 10 laps were within 0.17 seconds of my best lap of 15.24 seconds, which was impressive and demonstrated the TT-02R's drivability.


Astonished by the TT-02's performance, I added a bit more front camber for the third round, shimmed the upper arms a bit more, and sought to lighten the car further. My F.D.R was compromising my overall lap time on the long straight. I should have added a bigger pinion, but instead, I lightened the car to gain speed.


I put the car on corner weights and was surprised by its balance. I swapped the LRP LiPo for a Zombie one, saving 38g and balancing it with 15g of weights, saving approximately 25g. The third round was good, though the Zombie battery felt softer on acceleration due to its lower internal resistance. I made a silly mistake early on that required marshalling. Despite this, I made progress, mainly due to increased grip and confidence in throwing the TT-02 around. Near the end, I was lapping a car when they misjudged the space needed, causing a collision. I rolled but landed on my wheels and continued, though the car ran at half speed. I assumed the spur gear had stripped but found it intact upon reaching the pull-off area. It later returned to normal, allowing me to finish the round.


The gear mesh was robust and I had no issues with the spur gear stripping.

Frustratingly, I would have improved my time if not for the slow lap. The best 10 laps were still very consistent. Checking the spur gear and pinion, everything seemed fine, so I hoped it was a loose servo plug and just bedded them in securely.


For the final round, I returned to the LRP battery, and the car felt more responsive, though the power issue persisted, with the car intermittently running at half throttle. The high grip didn't unsettle the TT-02R, except during quick transitions due to the lack of anti-roll bars. I posted an okay time but felt the car's performance wasn't fully tested due to the electrical issue and high F.D.R.


The TT-02R cornered very flat and was easy to drive

Despite this, the TT-02R performed well, managing to earn a respectable overall position, whilst I knew it had potential to have been even higher is the stars had aligned. With the final approaching, I decided to experiment. I switched off all ESC overheat and low voltage protections, suspecting a loose battery terminal or battery dumping, though both LiPos seemed fine.


For handling, I switched to stiffer springs, opting for 2.4-2.7 progressives on the front and 2.7 on the rear. Lining up for the final, I was eager to gain places. On the tone, I got away cleanly, and the stiffer springs improved the car's feel. Excited, I passed several cars in the initial laps until a collision left the TT-02 on its roof. Once marshalled, I regained some ground until another collision.



Noticing the leader behind me, I moved wide to let them pass, keen to compare my pace. I managed to match the leader until a backmarker incident caused a heavy impact. The TT-02 slowed to half throttle and stayed that way, forcing me to retire from the race, feeling gutted.


After the race, I discovered a motor wire had come off, likely loose throughout the day and fully dislodged by the impact. Mechanically, the car was perfect, having endured a full day of racing with no breakages despite several impacts and rollovers.


Here is the final Set-up

So can you race a Tamiya? 

The truth is, Yes. The TT-02R in near-stock form was surprisingly good. My main frustration was that I had left it all so late to set up and build. Had I taken it to my local club for a proper shakedown, I could have been quicker (yes, we all know preparation is key). With only a few choice upgrades, I had a car capable of competing with high-end competition chassis. Shaving off some extra weight and setting the F.D.R to 4.2 or lower to capitalize on the straights would have further enhanced performance.


I was also taken aback by the number of positive comments from others who watched the chassis in action. It genuinely intrigued some drivers that a car many perceive as a toy is capable of competing at such a high level of competition.



At this event, I didn't achieve it's full potential with the set-up. I don't need any more parts to make it quicker, just track time. It's exciting to think that this entry level car hasn't reached its maximum performance threshold. It's one of the things that makes the TT-02 such a fun chassis to experiment with.

The thing is, I could have just used the kit long hex’s (and not the bling blue ones) and the kit bumper and battery mounts and the car will have performed pretty much the same. I’ve since tried this at our local club and indeed I managed to end up in a respectable position. :) so really the upper adjustable arms are pretty much the only essential hop-up to start racing a TT-02R (gearing and springs are tailored to any individual track so are an expense for all race cars).


I am not claiming it is the greatest race chassis of all time. A top-end chassis will ultimately be quicker and easier to adjust in many ways, but the TT-02R proves to be a superb option for those wanting to dabble in the world of RC racing. It gives you so many options for such a low price. You can race it both indoors and outdoors. It's robust, and if you break anything, parts are cheap and plentiful. And if you decide racing isn't for you, you can raise it up and rally it around on dirt and gravel.


Importantly, I thoroughly enjoyed racing it. So, what more could I want (a winner's trophy, perhaps)? It's also presented me with a dilemma... Should I enter a national race with the TT-02 this year? Let's see.. 😎


Additional reading

TT02 tuning tips

TT02 Stealth gear chart


TT02 9039496910104685547

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